Saturday, 26 October 2013 11:00
Bringing Together the Selvage, Grain and Bias for Different CutsWritten by d'Italia
In recent posts we’ve discussed what bias, grain and selvage are in their own respects, but bringing all three concepts together forms the foundation of an important aspect of fabric working: cutting. Cutting fabrics isn’t just about trimming along a stencil mark or keeping a straight cut; it’s also about working with (or even against) the specific fabric you’re working with.
Starting with the Selvage As discussed more in-depth in our selvage post, the selvage is the finished (or non-finished, in some cases) edge of a fabric caused by its cross-pattern composition. Locate the selvage before you make a cut of any kind. Finding the Grain Finding the grain can be tricky depending on the pattern, but you should always be able to find that inner-pattern of threads making the fabric up. Find the fabric grain running perpendicular to the selvage next. Cutting Straight Lines From here, cutting a straight line is just a matter of following those perpendicular grains. Use them as your guide rather than just eye-balling for a crisp cut. Cutting on the Bias But you don’t always have to cut along the grain; in fact, sometimes it’s best to cut through it. To cut on the bias for a stretchier piece with slightly more elasticity, fold the corner of the fabric down so it makes a triangle with the selvage as its base, then cut along that edge to make a sort of diagonal trim through the grid, rather than along either the perpendicular or parallel grains. To book a free consultation with us phone (03) 9509 4633 d'Italia is open 7 days 10am-5pm and is located at 62 Glenferrie Road, Malvern, Melbourne