Friday, 07 June 2013 10:00
What Does Cut on a Bias Mean?Written by d'Italia
Understanding what cutting on a bias means also means understanding a couple other basic sewing concepts, but it’s easier to understand than perform. It’s rare for beginning sewers to try this technique, as it’s hard to do well and not ruin the fabric being worked on, but it has a specific use within clothing industries and personal garment creation that can be a great tool if you master it.
Warp and Weft To cut on a bias starts with the warp and weft. In a woven fabric, the warp is the tightly woven yarn running lengthwise throughout it, while the weft is the vertical yarn woven perpendicularly through the warp. The Bias The bias is basically just a direction in relation to the warp and weft. Cutting this means approaching from the diagonal – or 45 degree – angle for your cuts. It can take a lot of practice to get this right consistently. The Benefit The benefit of cutting on the bias is that it provides a more fluid, stretch fabric for garments. This is often used in women’s clothing meant to form-fit, like tighter skirts or underwear, but it’s also useful for any garment needing a looser flow and greater elasticity, such as a necktie.